Using the clicker is an easy and fun way to shape
and reward positive behaviors in your dog. It is based on the scientific
principles of Classical conditioning and Operant conditioning.
A short 4-6′ light leash, sometimes
referred as a “belt leash.” It is thin enough you can double up in your hand
with easy and makes it more manageable. I recommend a leather leash as it is
the most comfortable on your hands and you do not get rope burn. This is the
leash that gets used the most. I typically cut off the handle at the end.
I use small cut up hot dogs as the basis of our
training treats. I also use the Victor Professional kibble for puppy training. Find out what you dog likes and will work for. His kibble,
hot dogs, cheese, etc. Once you know what they LOVE, they will really want to
work for it and earn their “paycheck” from you.
Very useful to keep treats handy and accessible when working with your puppy, and don't have your training vest.
TOYS! I highly recommend the use of toys, balls, and tugs in the training of your dog. Most of our work is done with the ball on a string and tug toys. Toys and tugs are used to help motivate and maintain an energetic and willing partner.
Chew Bones/Toys: I highly recommend the Benebone & Nylabone products.
For young puppies teething the “Flexable Chew” is great. I use the non-edible
“durable and big chews”, and they last very Ill. They are great for keeping
teeth clean and white.
Provide hours of interactive fun and
mental stimulation for your dog. It’s great to use for preventing
destructive boredom behaviors, prevent barking, or to simply keep your dog
Baby Gate(s): Easily block of areas of the house to limit
free roaming. You want to supervise your puppy to teach them what they can and
can’t chew on in the house. It’s much easier to follow through if you can see
PLACE BED: I like the Kuranda beds. (44×27) They are the most durable and long lasting. Teach your puppy “place” and they can hang out and be part of the family and not get in trouble.
Nylon Buckle Collars: I use a simple nylon buckle collar as
the puppies grow up until they can fit into a Fur Saver around 5-6 months.
Fur Saver: A fur saver is usually one of the first items
obtained by a schutzhund enthusiast and is the only collar allowed in trials.
It is a large link clip collar and can be used on the live or dead ring. I
normally use the dead ring with our dogs. If corrections are needed the pinch
collar works better once the puppy is older.
Line: Very often used is a lightIight line 20-50′ for obedience work,
to reinforce recalls, retrieves, long downs, and anything else that might
require distance from the dog.
Drag Leash: A short 3-5” light leash. A drag leash is a
light Iight leash that is designed to be let the dog drag a leash so you can
quickly grab the line to either control the dog or to give a correction. A drag
line should not have a loop handle.
TIE DOWN – NOT TIE OUT: I use tie downs in the house with young puppies
who are not old enough to stay on their place beds. It is a non-chewable 2′
cable with clips on both ends. Using an eye hook into a wall, and clip to the
puppies collar, you can place them anywhere, or just hook them around a table
leg. This keeps them with you, but under control while you cook dinner, watch
TV, etc when you can’t watch them 100%.
Dog Crate: I recommend getting a bigger crate as your puppy grows. You want it small during potty training, just big enough to be comfortable. The crate should be a good place for your dog and not a punishment. It’s a place of safety, peace and quiet. Toss a couple of pieces of food in and give them a bone and treat ball.
Having a dog house to be able to stay warm and get out of the rain if there's no roof.
Grooming Supplies: Toe Nail Clippers, Slicker Brush, Rake, and Ear cleaning Solution. I suggest grooming once a Iek to keep your dog looking healthy and Ill groomed. This can be a great bonding time with your dog.